Hello. I just purchased a really nice 1993 Camry with 99000 miles on it. Whenever I purchased a car I bought a repair manual also since I like doing most of my own basic work. I either used Chilton鈥檚 or Haynes, but never put the money out for an actual shop manual and to be honest I have seen inside of one. Are they that much better that they are worth the cost difference?
A few more questions:
This is my first Camry and it performs really well. A 2.2 4 cyl matched 5 speed manual which I really like. The previous owner said he always used high mileage oil assuming this is synthetic. I always used 10W-40 oil. Is there a way to really tell?
I worked on Corollas and Tercels in the past and found they well quiet easy to maintain.
Never a Camry 2.2 4 cyl.
How easy is it in comparison to a Corolla or Tercel to replace the timing belt or maybe the intake manifold gasket?
My Camry does have power steering and air conditioning.Shop manuals that much better than aftermarket ones?
About the shop manual:
When I got my Audi, I bought a shop manual AND a Chilton manual. the Shop manual is more complete and in depth. The problem is that (at least for the Audi) it assumes the reader is a Audi dealer mechanic and constantly refers to AUDI specific tools. In the Chilton manual, it tells me how to the SAME fix using the generic tools (like voltmeters, vacuum gauge, etc.)
In one instance the shop manual says to use Audi specific gasket sealer. It turns out the tube was about $55 per tube. But the Chilton manual simply says to use generic RTV gasket sealer ($4 per tube). And the Chilton manual assumes that I am probably a backyard mechanic and so explains certain things that we might know off hand.
BUT that is not to say that the shop manual is useless. I like to torque all my bolts and such. And the Chilton manual skips on certain detail that the shop manual NEVER does.
===
As for the oil:
No there's no way to tell - other than to send your oil to oil analysis. But in my opinion it does not matter. What matters most is that (what ever he did) your engine is in good or bad shape. You can always test that by (1) compression test (2) visual check under the valve covers (3) gap clearance test using gap feelers for parts under the valve covers.
===
I can't speak for the specifics of Camry vs. Tercel maintenance. I can only say that I've owned 3 Japanese car and 2 honda was easy to maintain (Accord %26amp; Civic) and the Toyota was not so easy (but that's because it was MR2 - a mid-engine car.
Good Luck...Shop manuals that much better than aftermarket ones?
I prefer the shop manual.But i use them on uncharted ventures.
On oil selection i have understanding that you should not return to regular after synthetic.
And I think the maintenance on the 2.2 is easy to maintain.1-10 about 5 on the cam belt.
As Dennis Gage would say on My Classic Car.
Happy motoring .Shop manuals that much better than aftermarket ones?
My take on factory manuals-
I had a factory manual for 1989 Ford Probe, which I no longer have.
I currently have a factory manual set for 2001 Jeep Cherokee, in addition to a Chilton's (or is it a Haynes?? - no matter).
I find that for a lot of repair tasks the Chilton's is quite adequate, contains a lot of the same graphics as the Jeep manual, and the written instructions tend to be more concise. Sometimes this last point is good, sometimes not. I recently changed the AC evaporator and heater core, which is a LOT of work, and found that I was using both books. At times I had a hard time making heads or tails out of what the FSM was trying to say where as the Chilton's was clearer. However, the FSM will have things that may not be included in the Chilton's such as full wiring diagram, greater quantity of diagrams, etc. Overall, I like having the FSM and feel it was worth the money ($100 ish I think) that I spent to buy it used from ebay.
Subscribe to:
Post Comments (Atom)
No comments:
Post a Comment